The Best Releases of Geneva Watch Week 2025

Geneva became the epicenter of the global watch industry during the first week of April as Watches & Wonders returned to Palexpo with its largest-ever edition, featuring 60 renowned brands and an expanded floorplan. Alongside the Salon, independent watchmakers and Maisons showcased their latest creations at smaller-scale conventions such as Time to Watches or other venues within the city. As the event concludes, Hypebeast reflects on some of the most noteworthy timepieces unveiled in the past week.

Rolex Land-Dweller

The Land-Dweller has emerged as one of the most discussed timepieces following its debut, cementing its status as a standout in Rolex’s latest lineup. As an entirely new model, it has captivated attention not only for its innovative features but also for its striking honeycomb dial, which has sparked debates across watch circles. Despite its daring design, the Land-Dweller remains deeply rooted in Rolex’s design DNA, seamlessly blending elements like its fluted bezel and the new Flat Jubilee bracelet. From its fluted bezel to its new Flat Jubilee bracelet, the model marries cues from the brand’s archives, amalgamating elements from the 1969 Rolex Quartz to the 1974 Datejust.

Beyond its bold appearance, the Land-Dweller is a testament to Rolex’s technical ingenuity. This model is the result of over seven years of development, culminating in 32 patent applications, including 18 exclusive innovations. It features the 7135 Manufacture movement, an updated caliber inspired by the 1908 model and enhanced with a recently patented dual-wheel escapement. Offered in 36mm and 40mm case sizes, the Land-Dweller is available in steel, platinum and Everose gold, with prices ranging from $13,900 to $63,500 USD. Check more about the timepiece here, along with the rest of Rolex’s lineup for Watches & Wonders 2025.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P

Patek Phillipe’s Calatrava 619P is perhaps the Maison’s most understatedly refined reference among its array of newly unveiled novelties at Watches & Wonders. It dons a retro-inspired rose-gilt opaline dial that’s tastefully complimented by a minimalistic small seconds display and anthracite white gold applied faceted “obus”-style hour markers. Embodying timeless elegance, this time-only model is crafted with elegant proportions, measuring 38mm in diameter and 9.33mm in thickness, making it a sophisticated addition to the Maison’s celebrated Calatrava collection.

The reverse side of the 619P reveals its mechanical artistry, with a sapphire crystal caseback offering an unobstructed view of the 30-255 PS manually wound movement. This caliber fills the entire caseback, highlighting its precision engineering and exquisite craftsmanship. Read more about it here, along with the rest of Patek Philippe’s lineup for Watches & Wonders.

Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets

Cartier‘s Privé Tank à Guichets revival has brought renewed attention to one of the Maison’s most unconventional and rare Tank variants. Known for its Art Deco aesthetic and utilitarian design, this timepiece dates back to 1928 and stands out for its distinct “windows” that display time with only the hour and minutes. The modern interpretations retain the original’s charm while incorporating contemporary craftsmanship, resulting in three versions crafted in platinum, rose gold and yellow gold. Each features a 12 o’clock hour aperture and a curved 6 o’clock dragging minutes window, adding a touch of elegance to the functionality.

In addition to these classic designs, the Maison introduced a limited-edition platinum model with an asymmetric layout, showcasing an hour window rotated to the side at 10 o’clock and slanted minutes around the 4 o’clock mark. This innovative update highlights the Maison’s ability to combine historical inspiration with bold modern reinterpretations. Read more about the Cartier Tank à Guichets here, alongside the Maison’s full selection of watches for Watches & Wonders 2025.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication

The Vacheron Constantin Solaria is a real statement piece. Touted (and literally is) the most complicated wristwatch in the world right now, this horological beast boasts 41 complications, including five rare astronomical functions, Westminster minute-repeater and is composed of a staggering 1,152 components — all of this is housed in a 45mm whie ccase that is just shy of 15mm in in thinness, making it an actually wearable piece.

Achieving such an extraordinary creation required 7 years of intensive R&D, along with a full year of assembly by a master watchmaker. This follows the Maison’s announcement last year of the Les Cabinotiers Berkley Grand Complication, which showcased 63 complications in a pocket watch. With the Solaria, Vacheron Constantin demonstrates its ability to innovate within the boundaries of wearability, balancing unmatched complexity with refined craftsmanship to push the limits of haute horology. To view the Maison’s full selection of watches for the event, check out its dedicated coverage here.

F.P. Journe Chronometre Furtif

Remember when F.P. Journe made the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu in tantalum for the 2023 Only Watch auction? The independent watchmaker continues the journey with a fresh new addition to its lineSport Collection. Featuring a stealthy yet striking design, the timepiece boasts a 42mm case and integrated flat-link bracelet crafted entirely from tungsten carbide — an alloy interspersed with tantalum, described by Maison as a dense and time-resistant material. This is paired with a mirror-polished gray Grand Feu enamel dial that’s set against white gold, further enhanced with laser-engraved Arabic numerals and minute tracks, revealed under shifting light. Meanwhile, angular, matte rhodium-plated steel hour and minute hands stand out from the mysterious-looking watch face with excellent legibility.

The creation of this watch reflects the prowess and craftsmanship of F.P. Journe’s Les Cadraniers de Genève workshop, as its intricate Grand Feu enamel dial undergoes multiple firings at over 800°C to achieve its flawless finish. Despite the risks of material imperfections during the production process, only the highest-quality pieces pass the final inspection. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, the wearer is graced with a clear view of the 18k rose gold 1522 caliber, which powers this time-only piece with 56 hours of continuous running time at a rate of 21,600 vph. Though not a limited edition, the Chronomètre Furtif is set to release in fall 2025 as a limited production with a price tag of 85,000 CHF (approx. $98,780 USD). For more information, visit F.P. Journe’s official website.

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