How does one carry on the extraordinary legacy of a vanguard designer like Martin Margiela? Furthermore, how does one follow up on such a triumphant finale as John Galliano‘s theatrical Fall 2024 couture collection? Leave it to none other than Glenn Martens to show the way.
If one thing is for sure, it’s that Martens has the Midas touch when it comes to fashion takeovers. The Belgian designer shows a penchant for distilling the ethos of established names, while keeping his finger on the pulse of the moment. Just as his helming of Diesel is firmly rooted in the Italian denim label’s identity, his Fall 2025 Maison Margiela Artisanal debut started at the foundations, reprising core Margiela hallmarks and maintaining the theatricality of Galliano’s tenure.
On July 9, the designer took his audience back to where Martin Margiela staged his final collection in March 2009 at Parisian cultural space Le Centquatre. The floors were clad with fragmented tiling, and the walls were covered in haphazardly pasted posters, distressed, overlapping with one another, and peeling as if they had been there all along.
The atmosphere provided a strong contrast for the opening looks, directly referencing the 2009 show with the translucent armor of polyurethane gowns, coats, and, of course, Martin Margiela’s signature masks in various forms. Then, the show took a sharp turn with all-consuming metallic gowns, transforming the models into precious molten ores, eerily moving down the runway.
Echoes of Galliano come through as well, with extreme corsetry and regal floral patterns stained with an antiquarian patina. Martens translated these golden Renaissance-style fragments into Margiela’s language of deconstruction, assembling patchworked textiles to make up trench coats, long skirts, and bodycon dresses.
Then, a certain decaying quality begins to emerge. A jewel-adorned polo shirt looked as if it had been dug out of the ground, while the bottoms — a pair of light-wash jeans — resemble the “oldest pair of jeans,” recently uncovered in an abandoned mining shaft. What appeared to be leather jackets and skirts were finished with a rigid and rugged quality, and even the seemingly light, graceful fabrics appeared burnt and tattered.
However, with his closing remarks, Martens ensured his audience that renewal is imminent. A look comprising a men’s blazer and skirt was clad in emerald jewels and worn with an amorphous chrome mask, and next, a long-sleeve dress was covered with the spoils of a golden treasure chest. Elsewhere, a full tulle number suggested floral blooms, culminating in a bouquet-like headpiece, and the translucent plastic makes its return in a technicolor coat.
Finally, the show closed with one of the very few solid-colored numbers of the collection. An energetic lime green look, juxtaposing a ruffled bodice with a flowing skirt, evoked budding growth and rejuvenation — the next chapter of Maison Margiela has begun.
See the gallery above for a full look at Glenn Martens’ Maison Margiela Artisanal debut and stay tuned to Hypebeast for the latest fashion industry insights.
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