British-Jamaican designer Bianca Saunders has etched her name in menswear with a striking, androgynous style manifesto that often explores the concept of parallels. Titled “Dichotomy,” the fashioner’s Fall 2025 collection does just that again, investigating the relationship between movement and constraint — “two opposing forces that, when combined, create something entirely new,” she said in her collection notes.
When designing the line, Saunders watched archival videos of male Jamaican dancers, noting that she was “drawn to the idea of repetition in dance moves, where sequences are built on simplicity yet come together to create something intricate, intentional whilst forming a cohesive routine.”
In mode, Saunders stylized the creases and crunches that clothes inherit through dance on new fragmented shirts and ribbed tops, and she deliberately re-worked her staple silhouettes from previous collections, like her signature bow-legged Manner trousers and Y-neck long-sleeves.
She also tapped artist Shanti Bell, with whom the designer previously worked on Somerset House’s The Missing Thread exhibition, to create the line’s stiff set, which looked to create tension through models’ constrained movements. “We considered how this juxtaposition between freedom and restriction could be visually explored, creating this moment of contrast and celebration of movement,” said Bell.
More tension emerged from all of the twists and ties throughout the line: trousers were contorted, and bags were knotted with a sense of strictness inspired by artist Steven Parrino’s torn and cut-up canvases. Elsewhere, Robert Longo’s “Men in the Cities” photo series inspired the line’s balancing of feminine designs with classic workwear fits, in what would be the most literal interpretation of the line’s divided moniker.
See Bianca Saunders’ Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week coverage.
Click here to view full gallery at Hypebeast
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