COMME des GARÇONS Homme Plus FW26 Enters the Cosmic Void

Summary

• The COMME des GARÇONS Homme Plus FW26 collection explores a cyclical cosmic theory titled “Black Hole,” where traditional tailoring is pulled apart and reformed into “wearable wormholes” that symbolize the infinite loop of creation and rebirth.

• For the show, Kawakubo introduced a provocative and shadowy allure by hollowing out the backs of jackets to expose their internal architecture, often veiling these structural voids with delicate layers of lace

• The runway featured significant footwear partnerships, debuting a minimalist take on the Air Jordan 11 alongside leather shoes by Kids Love Gaité hand-painted with the designer’s “freedom” mantra

Rei Kawakubo’s latest odyssey for Comme des GARÇONS Homme Plus, titled “Black Hole,” serves as a profound meditation on cosmic birth and the infinite loop of creation. The collection takes its cue from the astrophysical hypothesis that our universe didn’t emerge from a void, but rather formed within the dense center of a massive collapse—a cycle of constant rebirth. Since the label’s inception, Kawakubo has remained anchored to her mysterious point of origin while constantly pulling her aesthetic universe into new, uncharted dimensions.

The garments arrived like anatomical satellites orbiting the models, who wore startled wigs and rigid hockey masks. Traditional tailoring was treated as a material to be deconstructed; black velvet coats were pocked with shirred ruffles resembling lunar craters, and jacket yokes were manipulated into Möbius twists. In a rare and provocative move, Kawakubo introduced a sense of unconventional allure by leaving the backs of jackets entirely hollow, exposing the inner structural pockets and the skin beneath. This alluring subversion was further softened by veils of intricate lace that shrouded the open-back cuts, creating a haunting tension between the garment’s exposed architecture and a newfound, shadowy elegance.

The mantra “My energy comes from freedom” was hand-painted onto the Kids Love Gaité footwear, emphasizing a spirit of defiance that also fueled the debut of the COMME des GARÇONS Homme Plus x Air Jordan 11. This legendary sneaker was stripped back to its essential form to anchor the show’s complex silhouettes. The long procession of dark, void-like looks eventually gave way to a blinding finale of stark white, a primitive flash of light that suggested the beginning of a new cosmic cycle.

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